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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.